July 5, 2021

John Kessler

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The Pizza Chicagoans Crave

It isn't deep-dish.

Chicago, like many cities, jumped on the pan pizza bandwagon this year. People spending long days at home wanted nothing so much as a hearty, square-cut slab of cheesy action, preferably one dotted with grease-collecting cups of pepperoni. Restaurants that served small plates and charcuterie pivoted to Detroit-style pizza, underground Grandma pie pop-ups proliferated on the Instagram-Venmo black market, and one Michelin-starred chef traded his intimate restaurant for a Sicilian carryout window. All this in a town that’s synonymous with deep-dish.

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